The Garden Stand turns 10: Building a New Hamburg icon

By Scott Dunstall

Anyone who wants to understand chef Adam Brenner’s business philosophy shouldn’t start with a mission statement. Start with a basket of tomatoes.

“You can pick a basket of tomatoes and sell it for three bucks,” Brenner said. “Or you can take that basket, make a batch of soup and sell it for $10.”

That lesson helped shape The Garden Stand, Brenner’s New Hamburg retail and prepared food operation, now marking 10 years of turning local ingredients into meals for people.

Brenner is New Hamburg born and raised. He was not raised on a farm, but his food story starts in the dirt. As a kid, he spent summers at his grandmother’s farm in the Wellesley area, picking berries, tending flowers and learning the patience and ingredient respect that would shape his work.

“My grandma was a great cook. My mom is a great cook,” he said. “Major influences.”

The Garden Stand started because Brenner was catering on weekends and kept ending up with extra food. Instead of wasting it, he sold it. Retail took off and became a big part of the business. Today, he estimates retail is about 50 per cent of the operation, with catering and wholesale splitting the rest.

Wholesale has expanded beyond town and so has the customer base.

“People come from London, Toronto, all over,” he said, describing how The Garden Stand has become a daytrip stop for visitors touring.

The 10 years became official this past January. Back in January 2016, he opened in the new year right after the Waterlot location closed. Anyone who remembers him moving around would be correct. His path included the Waterlot, a stretch in the Green Building during renovations and extra rented units along the way, all to keep production rolling.

Renovations brought pressures. Moving out of The Waterlot created many challenges for Brenner and his team. The new building and the renovations took longer than expected as the team continued to work in extremely tight quarters. What they were able to accomplish during that time is nothing short of remarkable.

When things went sideways in the early days, Brenner says his dad was the guy who kept the whole operation from flatlining. A retired mechanic and hands-on problem solver, he would show up when equipment failed at the worst possible time and figure it out. Back then, the store was basically a couple of coolers in the kitchen. And when people did not even know Brenner was there, his dad built a makeshift open sign box and planted it outside. It was not flashy. It was practical. It was work ethic in physical form.

That same grind-it-out mindset is the thread through Brenner’s story.

“I built this business from the ground up,” he said.

And he is not being dramatic. The work and dedication it took to grow it into what it is today has been relentless, with real sacrifice and heavy wear and tear on his body to match. Blood, sweat and tears doesn’t even begin to cover it.

Early on, Brenner gave away more product than he sold. The food would spoil anyway, so sampling built awareness.

“Try this, try that,” he said.

He still gives food away, especially when introducing something new. Fresh food has a short shelf life, but generosity has a long one.

It is mostly word of mouth now. He ran some paid ads early on, but referrals carried the business forward. The flip side is capacity. For 10 years, his days have run from 5 a.m. until 8 p.m. When asked what would surprise people most about running the business, he did not hesitate.

“The dedication,” he said. “I have not missed a day in 10 years.”

These days, he tries to protect time with his four-year-old son. He typically closes on statutory holidays now and structures catering pickup times to reclaim part of the day, even if he stays available when he is technically “off.”

Inside the shop, the experience has evolved with intention. Seating and coffee are part of hospitality, and he pays attention to what regulars like and what they need, including customers with mobility challenges who appreciate an easy walk in and a place to sit.

He also watches changing tastes. Every January brings new dietary shifts: low carb, dairy free, vegetarian, vegan and the tough one, no sodium. He tries to accommodate, but when production scales to 50, 100, 200 portions, some requests become custom orders by necessity.

COVID was another turning point. Catering took a major hit, retail surged and Brenner had to build delivery systems and adapt quickly.

“People have no idea what it took,” he said, describing the sacrifices required to keep a small business alive when the world changes overnight.

So, what’s next?

A lot, but not all at once. He is working toward a liquor license so customers could have lunch and a beer on site. He is also eyeing pop-ups, a dinner-club concept and better use of the heritage rooms in the back for private events. On the wholesale side, he is pushing forward with the labels, inspections, packaging and shelf-life requirements needed to land products in larger outlets. Longer term, he sees potential for outdoor hosting with a patio and tent setup, depending on approvals and timing.

Now, as The Garden Stand keeps expanding, he knows the next stage of success cannot run only on his own back. His biggest focus now is people.

“I have to let some stuff go,” he said.

Delegating more to staff is the only way the business grows without burning out the person who built it. The future of The Garden Stand will be built by other chefs and skilled professionals who can take direction, carry the standard forward and help grow what he started.

To congratulate Brenner, stop by 90 Wilmot St., New Hamburg, on Saturday, Feb. 28, between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. for his 10-year Sip and Shop celebration, with goodies, giveaways and samples.