Dandor Estates Winery brings a taste of Moldova to Niagara

Alexei Bodistean holds up a cultural Moldovan wine jug inside a renovated barn at the newly opened Dandor Estates Winery. ~ Luke Edwards photo

By Luke Edwards

The glasses may have been filled with wine, but they were vessels that carried far more than a well crafted cabernet.

Shortly after arriving in Canada in the early 2000s, Alexei Bodistean and his wife Lilia made their inaugural trek down to Niagara to see Niagara-on-the-Lake wine country. What they saw reminded them, in a lot of ways, of their home country in Eastern Europe.

“It was the same vineyards, the same orchards we see in Moldova,” Bodistean said from his newly opened Dandor Estates Winery, at a century farm property on Concession 2 Road.

Other than it being a little more flat than the hills of home, Bodistean found plenty of familiarity in NOTL.

He and Lilia began purchasing Niagara grapes, making their own homemade wine by 2002, following a tradition that remains strong back home. Even into her 90s, Alexei’s mom still makes a small batch of wine each year in the small Moldovan village where Alexei grew up.

A few years after they started making their own wine from Niagara grapes, the Bodisteans started a cultural festival based on homemade wine, but so much more. Wanting to keep their culture alive, not only for their fellow Moldovans who came to Canada after the fall of the Soviet Union, but for their two sons, Daniel and Dorin.

“To get together, as family and friends,” Bodistean said. Appropriately, the festival ran on the Family Day holiday weekend each year.

In time the festival would grow, as hundreds would share in local dress, food, music and art, reminding themselves of the Moldovan culture. It was also a chance to share wine, and winemaking tips. Bodistean handed out awards to some of the homemade winemakers.

“They increased their quality a lot,” he said.

Sadly, the COVID-19 pandemic marked the end of Polobocul De Aur. But then, in 2022, the Bodisteans purchased the Concession 2 Road property, getting to work right away on turning the 25-acre property into a winery.

They planted new vines, and by 2023 already made their first wine: a Riesling Bodistean called special.

A few fruit trees still remain, as well.

With an acute understanding of the value of culture and heritage, Bodistean said they also set about renovating the buildings on the property to combine the history of the farm - it’s over 100 years old and the Bodisteans bought it from a family that had maintained it for decades - with the culture and heritage of their home country.

Former barns and farm buildings now house tasting rooms and cellars, with tributes to Moldova in the forms of a handmade rug hanging on the wall or Moldovan ceramics and pottery welcoming visitors.

Work continues on the property. One of the buildings can’t be salvaged and Bodistean said it will need to be replaced. However, they’re planning to preserve some of the wood to be used in the new building as a nod to the history. They also hope to showcase old equipment, like a collection of horse harnesses Bodistean found in one of the old barns.

Landscaping work is also in the plans, should the weather decide to cooperate.

In the vineyard, Bodistean has a mix of varieties. One he’s most excited about, though, is called saperavi, a variety native to Georgia but is a mainstay in Moldovan winemaking.

“It’s very bold, a very intense grape and juice,” said Chris Fuccillo, who works at Dandor.

“Hopefully we’ll plant more varieties related to our region of Moldova,” Bodistean added.

In addition to the new varieties, they’re also using other techniques like a Hungarian oak barrel that helps Dandor with its goal to carve out a unique niche in Niagara’s wine scene.

“It produces a really nice, soft, richer wine,” said Fuccillo.

“We’re trying to focus on what our flavour is here at the winery.”

Winemaker Adam Kern has also been a welcomed addition, Bodistean said.

The family is also hoping to bring back something like their cultural festival, using the winery to host something similar. In Toronto, their focus was mostly on the Moldovan immigrant community, helping keep the culture alive. And while Bodistean stressed the importance of that, he said he’s also interested in sharing that culture with others.

“I want to continue some kind of tradition from Moldova here in Niagara,” he said.

Moldova’s day of national independence is Aug. 27, and Bodistean suggested that could be an appropriate time for an event.

Ultimately, Bodistean said the winery needs to be able to pay the bills, but the venture is more about a passion for him.

“It was my dream to have this winery,” he said.

The name Dandor is derived from his children’s names: Daniel and Dorin.

Dandor Estates took part in the Days of Wine and Chocolate event hosted by the Wineries of Niagara-on-the-Lake earlier this year, and also plan to be a part of May’s Sip and Sizzle event. Bodistean said early reviews have been positive.

A special opening event also took place in early April, a special time of year for the Bodisteans as it marks both their arrival to Canada and Alexei’s and Lilia’s anniversary.

The winery is open Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. It’s located at 780 Concession 2 Road, and more information can be found at dandorestatewinery.ca.