From field to fork: Chef James Eddington celebrates Huron County’s bounty

Chef James Eddington is bringing the tastes of Huron County to diners at Eddington’s of Exeter

By Meg Pearson

For more than 25 years, chef James Eddington has built his restaurant around a simple idea: the best meals start close to home.

Long before “farm-to-table” became a popular buzzword, Eddington was already building relationships with local farmers and sourcing ingredients grown just down the road. When Eddington’s of Exeter opened in 1997, the abundance of fresh, high-quality ingredients available throughout Huron County quickly shaped the restaurant’s philosophy.

“We quickly realized the availability of fresh local quality ingredients right here on our doorstep,” Eddington said. “Building a relationship with local farmers and purveyors was a natural fit.”

Those relationships have become the foundation of the restaurant’s success.

Today, Eddington’s works with a wide range of regional producers, including Hayter’s Turkey, Metzger Meats, Firmly Rooted, Masse Fruit and Vegetables and Weth Mushrooms. For Eddington, these partnerships go far beyond sourcing ingredients.

“It’s our DNA,” he said. “These relationships are very special, and we are so proud to serve and execute these local ingredients and to truly know the farmer and their story.”

About a decade ago, Eddington took his commitment to local food even further by purchasing a 25-acre farm along the shores of Lake Huron. The property now supplies the restaurant with specialty fruits, vegetables and flowers grown specifically for the kitchen.

“We grow specialty vegetables that we can use at the restaurant, along with unique varieties of apples, quince, blood peaches, kiwis and specialty flowers,” he said.

The farm also operates through crop-sharing partnerships with local growers like Masse Fruit and Vegetables, producing crops such as sweet corn, beans, pumpkins and squash.

Having direct access to the farm allows Eddington to design menus that reflect the rhythms of the seasons.

“We plan our seasonal menus around what is fresh and available,” he explained. “We also plant specialty items that we know we’ll be using at the restaurant. It definitely is more work, but we know our patrons appreciate the quality and can taste the difference.”

That dedication to Ontario-grown food has earned Eddington’s a Feast ON certification, a designation from the Culinary Tourism Alliance that verifies restaurants are genuinely committed to sourcing local ingredients.

“Feast ON is a certification program that actually audits the books and ensures we are sourcing local and not ‘greenwashing,’” Eddington said. “It’s great to be part of such a terrific organization.”

While sourcing locally offers tremendous rewards, it also requires flexibility, skill and careful planning.

“It takes more time, planning, training, organization and chef skills to source, grow and support local,” Eddington said. “Unlike a chain restaurant that has a formula or receives food from a bag or box, sourcing and growing food and working with Mother Nature certainly has its challenges - but it is 100 per cent worth it.”

Even during the late winter months, the restaurant continues to highlight the flavours of the region using preserved and cellar-stored ingredients from the previous harvest.

Right now, diners might find dishes like butternut squash soup made from Eddington’s own field, white beans from Van Osch Farms, rutabaga from Veri Fine Produce and honey sourced from Maitland Apiaries. A blood peach syrup made from fruit grown on the farm adds another local touch, while maple syrup season is currently underway across the region.

Looking ahead, Eddington will be sharing his passion for regional food on a larger stage. In June, he will travel to Edmonton to speak at the Taste of Place Summit, representing Feast ON and the province of Ontario.

“I hope to inspire the new generation of young chefs and industry professionals about how ‘taste of place’ is important,” he said. “I’m proud to showcase Huron County and the surrounding area. We are truly blessed.”

After more than two decades in the kitchen, Eddington says the work still excites him.

“The fact that we are ever evolving and always learning,” he said. “It has been such a rewarding career. We’ve been blessed with great staff and the best customers.”

For a chef working in one of Ontario’s most productive agricultural regions, the inspiration is never far away—often beginning just steps from the restaurant door.