Barcelona Beckons: From travel hiccups to bucket-list wonders

Towering above the Catalonia countryside, the jagged peaks of Montserrat emerge through the morning mist, creating one of the most striking and spiritual landscapes near Barcelona. The mountain is home to the famed basilica, monastery and the revered Black Madonna.

Karon Sinning

Paris Independent Travel Columnist

After soaking in the vibrant street life of La Rambla, the spectacle of Flamenco and the colourful charm of Barcelona’s Hat Stroll, Karon Sinning’s final day in the city offered a change of pace — trading crowds and culture for misty mountain views and a taste of Catalonia’s deep-rooted traditions. What followed was a journey beyond the city limits, where dramatic landscapes, centuries-old history and local wine brought her Barcelona adventure to a memorable close.

Our last tour in Barcelona was to Montserrat, with a separate winery tour and wine tasting. The tour headed out from the Barcelona North bus terminal at 8:30 am. As we were unsure of the walking time, we opted for a taxi to take us. Taxis are plentiful in Barcelona. You can use the App (Free Now) or hail down any one with a green light (available) on the roof. 

At the bus terminal it was a bit challenging finding the departure spot, as currently the terminal is under a major renovation.  We asked for directions from the right person….a guide on the same bus as us!  Once we arrived at the departure area, we had to hurry up and wait as our bus was snarled in traffic and running late. 

It is about an hour drive to the Montserrat mountain, but the scenery is great getting there. The first glimpse of the peaks, as the mountain consists of finger-like peaks, is very striking. Montserrat literally means “jagged mountain.”  There are a few superstitions or myths around the creation of these peaks:  such as angels carving them with a golden saw, but as this area was, at one point below sea level, geology is likely the culprit. The closer you get, the more amazing. 

When we arrived, the mountains were shrouded in mist. This is common for the mornings at Montserrat, and it shifts and clears quickly; at times, reappearing and shifting again. 

At the top is the Montserrat Basilica and the Santa Maria de Montserrat Monastery. A Benedictine order of 18 remaining monks and the home of the black Madonna. The statue is crafted from poplar wood and is known for its distinct dark skin, which tradition suggests is due to candle smoke over centuries. It dates from about the 12th century and features a seated Madonna with the Child on her lap, both wearing crowns.

While it was originally just the church and monastery, there is now a very prestigious boys’ music school, a hotel, shops and restaurants. There is a Furnicular tram running up and down the mountain but was not operating while we were there (thank goodness).  There is also a train running from Barcelona up to the mountain. Something to consider for a return trip!

After spending about 3 hours on Montserrat and enjoying lunch, it was off to the winery tour. The trip there was about half an hour. 

Set in the picturesque landscape of Catalonia, the Oller del Mas winery is located on about 1,500 acres, with the property being established in 964 AD. Yes that’s right….over 1,000 years of being owned by the same family! 

In Catalonia there is a “Heretat” (hereditary)  law whereby the property can only be passed down to the family. Given the era it was established, I asked if it could go to daughters as well as sons. The answer was….yes. Which I was very pleased to hear. However, as a result, the Oller name has been lost over the generations, but still kept alive in the winery. They actually display the family tree on a wall, which of course is taller than me! 

Our guide for the day was Lorena and along with the great history of Montserrat, she also had a wealth of information on wine. I asked her how she knew all this about the wine and she said, as a guide for the winery, she is required to take regular classes.  We tasted 3 wines, one white and 2 red, and enjoyed a plate of cheese, meat, potato dumplings along with bread, olive oil and mashed tomatoes. They also offered a vegetarian plate. 

We were given about 40 minutes free time after the tasting and it was a beautiful day to wander around the picturesque property. As well as a winery, there are also 22 cabins in the forest you can rent….another thing for the bucket list!

Arriving back in Barcelona about 3:30 we decided to see if we could find our way back to the hotel on foot. Lorena pointed us in the right general direction; then Roy took over with Google Maps. Barcelona is set up on a grid layout which makes finding your way much easier. The walk back was about 45 minutes, in virtually a straight line to La Rambla. Once there we knew where our hotel was. 

Both Roy and I agreed that Barcelona was spectacular. It is definitely on the “must return to” list.

About the columnist: Karon Sinning is a proud Paris resident who has a passion for travel and storytelling. Along with her partner Roy and friends, she enjoys exploring countries around the world and experiencing new cultures, food and everyday life beyond the tourist trail. Through her travel column, Karon shares those journeys with Paris Independent readers, offering practical insights, personal reflections and a sense of connection to the people and places she visits.