Dairy farmer shares passion for cheese-making

Shakespeare Opti-Mrs. members pose for a photo with Maynard Martin of Farmers Cheese. From left to right are Anne Skubowius, Carolyn Stock, Jean Smelski, Charlotte McTavish, Bessie Wilhelm, Jean Rader, Opti-Mrs. president Ellen Fuhr, guest speaker Maynard Martin, Ang McPherson, Valerie Roth, Dianne Zoeller and Mary-Lynn Slobozian. Diane Danen photo

By Diane Danen

Members of the Shakespeare Opti-Mrs. enjoyed an informative and engaging presentation at their May meeting from guest speaker Maynard Martin of Farmers Cheese near Drayton.

The presentation was arranged by Opti-Mrs. member Charlotte McTavish. McTavish had sampled some of Martin’s cheese made at Ted and Diane Danen’s farm and became interested in learning more about the cheese-making process.

Martin shared the story of how he became involved in dairy farming and eventually cheese making. He grew up on a hog and beef farm near Drayton, but as a teenager, he helped milk cows at his uncle’s farm and quickly developed a passion for dairy farming.

“Something bit me there,” Martin said with a smile. “I was hooked on dairy farming.”

Getting started in dairy farming was difficult because quota was needed. Things eventually began to fall into place after he met his wife, Christine, who came from a dairy-farming family. A dairy farm located just four miles from where Martin grew up came up for sale, giving the couple their opportunity to get started.

Martin credited the owner of the farm with helping him learn the business, serving as a mentor over the years.

“I did have to learn some things the hard way though,” he said.

Initially milking in a tie-stall barn, Martin eventually began experiencing knee problems and decided it was time to build a free-stall barn with sand bedding in 2010. Improved cow comfort led to increased milk production. The farm soon faced a new challenge, producing more milk than their quota allowed.

Martin said it did not sit well with him to dump excess milk.

“Milk is one of nature’s most perfect foods,” he said. “It just seemed wrong to pour good milk down the drain.”

That concern inspired him to begin experimenting with cheese-making in his own kitchen.

Martin explained the business grew slowly through plenty of trial and error. A turning point came when his sister, who lives near Cobden in eastern Ontario, connected him with a French cheese maker who was selling his equipment and was willing to share his recipe.

The French cheese maker had spent a year in Switzerland learning the art of cheese-making and developed the recipe Martin uses today. Martin purchased the man’s cheese trailer and invited him to the area to help teach him the process.

Martin laughed as he recalled his teacher spoke only French while he spoke only English, but despite the language barrier, the two somehow managed to communicate and the lessons proved invaluable.

He first began making cheese for neighbours, joking the real test was whether people would actually enjoy it. Word quickly spread and today, Martin is kept busy going to the many dairy farms in southern Ontario, though he has travelled as far away as Georgian Bay and New Liskeard. The majority of the cheese Martin makes is produced from cow’s milk, but he has also made cheese using goat, sheep and water buffalo milk.

Martin and his family operate under home consumption regulations, meaning the cheese is produced for the farm families’ own use and cannot be sold commercially.

During the presentation, Martin walked members through the fascinating process of making cheddar cheese. Milk is pumped directly from the farm’s bulk tank into a vat in the cheese trailer, where it is heated and combined with bacterial cultures. Though Martin produces only cheddar cheese, he explained there are approximately 1,400 different cultures available, creating endless possibilities for unique cheese varieties.

Rennet is then added to separate the milk solids from the liquid whey. Within about 30 to 40 minutes, 1,000 litres of milk transforms into a Jello-like substance. Using special stainless steel “harps,” the substance is cut vertically and horizontally while the whey is drained away. The cubes are then put through a curd press.

The curds are heated, stirred, salted, flavoured and pressed into blocks, eventually forming cheddar cheese. Farmers Cheese offers a variety of flavours including onion, vegetable, chive, garlic and sundried tomato, cummin seed, hot jalapeño, caramelized onion and vegetable spice.

The entire cheese-making process takes about seven hours to complete at the farm. Once the whey has drained from the boxes of cheese, the blocks are cut into smaller pieces and vacuum sealed, a service that Farmer’s Cheese has offered to customers over the past few years. Before farmers can begin enjoying the cheese, it must be aged for two months, a process that makes it safe for human consumption.

Martin credits much of the operation’s success to his wife, Christine, and their five children, who keep the dairy farm running while he is away making cheese. Other family members, including his daughters-in-law and father-in-law, also lend a hand, making it a true family venture.

Today the family operates three cheese trailers, including the original trailer which now serves as a spare unit. Martin’s son also helps with cheese production several times a week.

Martin emphasized his commitment to reducing food waste by making good use of surplus milk while providing a quality product to his customers.

The presentation concluded with Opti-Mrs. members enjoying several flavours of cheddar cheese produced by Farmers Cheese. Members of the Shakespeare Opti-Mrs. thanked Martin for sharing both his story and his passion for dairy farming and cheese-making.